Tuesday, May 31, 2011

dear friends and family who do not have facebook,

I have created a Korean photo blog of some of my favorite pictures/events.

check it out: http://brikorea.tumblr.com/

and to add to the blog line up I also have my art site too: http://brionnahughes.com/

xoxox

Brionna

Friday, May 6, 2011

Spring

Oh my, it has been so so long! Who knew sitting down to write a new post could become so difficult? I have officially been in Korea for 6 months and I am about to start my 3rd term. Its definitely time for an update.

Spring has officially arrived and along with it cherry blossoms, sunshine, thunderstorms, and more festivals than you could count or ever imagine a country this small to have.

Festivals.

  • Jindo Sea Parting Festival.

Ok, this was actually more than a few months ago, but I never got around to telling you about it. The Sea Parting, or Miracle Road Festival to religious Koreans, happens once a year in Jindo in Jeollanam-do Province. The sea "mysteriously" parts and you can walk from the mainland to a nearby island. This phenomenon is caused by the difference in high tides and low tides, which creates a 2.8-kilometer-long road measuring 40 to 60 meters in width.

Lucy and I took an early am bus from Seouland arrived at the Jindo bus station about 4 hrs later. Side note, Korean bus drivers are crazy, not afraid of the brake pedal or of taking corners at excessively high speeds. Upon arriving at the bus station we needed to find our way to the festival location along the coast. We decided to take a bus which caused a whole lot of confusion. While waiting alone outside for our bus to, hopefully, come I was ambushed by a group of high school aged Koreans, who were very excited to practice their english on me. Through muddled Konglish, I was told that they liked my shoes, thought I had a nice face, and then of course they talked for a very long time about my nose ring.

We soon gave up on the bus, returned our tickets, and took a taxi. When we arrived at the festival location we bumped into some other expats that we had met at the bus station. We joined forces and found a hostel together. In the end our little expat group grew to about 10.

Our hostel was pretty typical Korean, just anempty room, with blankets and a heated floor. But this one had one bathroom, located outside of all of the rooms. Another problem we encountered was the Jindo apparently had no ATMs. A weekend of no showers and no food.

We soon met up with some friends that I went to college with, bought some soju (Korean rice liqour) and made our way to the Miracle Road. It was very cool! It was also very muddy and the water was freezing! My feet hurt so bad, but it was too pretty to stop walking. We saw gorgeous blue and orange starfish, lots of abalone shells, and many other little sea creatures. Many tourists were there to walk across, but many Koreans were there to harvest the sea creatures and sea plants. One Korean crossing the land bridge asked my to face time with his wife over his iphone, oh Korea.


- our hostel

About halfway through the land bridge crossing, disaster struck! Suddenly all of the soju we had drank hit my bladder at once and I had to pee so bad. I really wanted to turn back, but my friends convinced me to try and make it to the other end, we were so close. So I kept going. Then about 5 mins later, the Korean sea police started blowing their whistles and telling us to turn back, the tide was coming in. OH NO! I literally thought I was going to pee my pants in the middle of the Miracle Road. So I ran ALL the way back across the land bridge.

After wandering around the few tents they had and listening to a few men dressed in a sort of Korean drag sing and dance, we made our way back to our hostel. Havingonly a few wons in our pockets we found a tiny little, connivence store. It wasn't much of a store, more of a one room apartment, with half a store attached to the front, selling random snacks, juices, alcohol and cigarettes. In the front half of the shop the owner and about 4 other local men were sitting around a bubbling pot of Kimchi Jiggae (kimchi stew) having dinner. We practically walked right into their dinner, and before we knew it we were being invited to sit down and were being passed shots of soju and Jindo's very own liqour. I have no idea what it was made out of, but I had sampled it at the festival earlier that day. Its a dark red color and taste like rubbing alcohol mixed with hairspray. We gladly accepted spoonfuls of jiggae and shots of liquor, we were broke abd starving. They men were very friendly and more than excited to be talking with us. After dinner we joined the rest of our expat group for a bonfire on the beach.
It was a good weekend.
Dinner in the snack shop.
  • Cherry Blossom Festival.

Wasn't much of a festival, just a street lined with cherry trees. I had been to the area a week earlier when Lucy and I rented bicycles and rode around. Only difference now was the amount of people. Cherry blossoms are beautiful, but I grew up on a cherry and apple farm. Although I do love the blossoms, the excitement of it all was lost on me.



  • The Hampyeong Butterfly Festival

......or as I now refer to it The Great Butterfly Bust


How fun does a butterfly festival sound? Tons of fun!? Thats what I thought! So a few weekends ago Lucy and I boarded a bus for a 5 hour ride to what we thought would be a wonderful weekend of butterflies, flowers, and general loveliness. Upon arriving in Hampyeong we quickly realized how wrong we were. Due to some unknown error we got the dates wrong. There was no festival and there barley was a town. While we were sitting in the bus station trying to come up with a back up plan we were approached by one the five expats that lives in the area. He was friendly, from Seattle, and reaffirmed how wrong we were.

We walked around Hampyeong, it took about 5 mins, but some lunch, tuna kimbap, and decided to go to Mokpo, about an hr away.

Mokpo was a little coastal city. Day one in Mokpo we walked along the harbor and went on a wonderful hike.


The best part of the whole weekend was the laser light show, or as the locals proudly called it The Dancing Water Fountain. It hilarious, the music, the drunk Koreans singing along, it was great! I had to video it to capture at least a portion of the greatness:


Mokpo day two we decided to take a ferry around the islands. While buying ferry tickets we were greeted by Mr. Lee, the very friendly tour guide. We seemed to be the only tourist he had seen in a while and he was more than eager to help. He even gave us a personalized tour of the museum while we waited. His enthusiasm was very entertaining, the language barrier and the overall awkwardness added to the hilarity. Take for example this piece of our conversation: "this island is famous for Bumping Bisssshees?" (pause) "Ohhhh Jumping Fish!" "Yes, yes, you understand, yes?"

The ferry ride was fun. Very small walk on ferry that connects people on the island to the mainland, Mokpo. I don't think most people ride it for fun, but we enjoyed it!




  • Lotus Lantern Festival.

This may be my favorite festival yet.

The Lotus Lantern Festival is the celebration of Buddha's birthday in Seoul. It included a lantern parade, a Buddhist culture street fair and a traditional lantern exhibition in and around Jogyesa and Bongeunsa Temples. It was beautiful!!

Saturday we went to Bongeunsa Temple. The entire temple was covered in colorful lanterns.
The white tags are wishes.

White lanterns are wishes for the dead.
Colorful lanterns a general life wishes.


Saturday night we went to the lantern parade. It was so, so beautiful. So many amazing lantern floats.





Sunday was the Buddhist culture street fair. A street in the area on Insadong was shut off from traffic for about a mile and lined with hundreds of booths. There were booths about korean and international Buddhist culture, local community groups, food samples, games, and many interactive booths (lantern making, candle making, incense making......) It was so much fun!!!!!!

Lotus candle making.

making wishes

making a little paper lotus.

The street fair was also located in and around Jogyesa Temple. Like the temple before, it was covered in colorful lanterns. I don't know if I could ever get tired of all the beautiful lanterns, wish I could cover my apartment with them. I'm in love with them.




Thanks for reading! Hopefully I will return again soon to fill you in on all of my upcoming adventures:
Bungee Jumping (hopefully) for my 25th Birthday
Tour of the DMZ
Gangneung Beach Trip
Vacation to the Philippines

Stay tuned.






Tuesday, March 22, 2011

The Wednesday Special

Whoa! Looks like I am way overdue for a new update!

So much has happened in the last month, the idea of a new post has been a little overwhelming. I know I will forget something, but here goes....

I have been here for a little over 4 months! Its crazy how fast time is flying by. We recently started a new term at school. I was definitely looking forward to a fresh start with new students. I had this grand plan of starting this term out as a strict, scary teacher. Hah! What a joke that was, I lasted a day, maybe. But so far, so good! I love my new classes!!

Being the only female teacher at my school I get all of the young classes. Fine by me, that just means I have the cutest little monsters! One of my youngest students (and eventually the rest of the class) started calling me "Ramen Head Teacher" because my hair reminded him of ramen noodles. Then after my spur of the moment hair chopping decision (see Korean Fringe, aka 4th grade bangs haha), my students now call me "Kimchi in the Front, Ramen in the Back." They make my hairstyle sound like some kind of Korean mullet!

Also my new schedule is pretty sweet. Usually we teach 5 days a week, three full days and two half days. But this term instead of two half days I get a full day off. So I work Monday, Tuesday, Day Off, Thursday, Friday, Weeeekend! Its perfect! And to make things better my friend Lucy, who works for the same company but a different branch, has the exact same schedule! We have been taking full advantage of our free Wednesdays!

So far on our Wednesday adventures we have managed to pack in quite a bit of exploring:

Our first wednesday we roamed around an area called Apujeong. We spent a hour or so wandering around and trying to find "Rodeo Drive," or "the street with all the shopping." Nothing too exciting there, just a bunch of cute little shops, fun to walk around and window shop though. And as usual the temperature dropped quickly and we spent the rest of the afternoon in a coffee shop, chatting and reading.

Second wednesday of freedom went to Insadong and some neighboring areas. We started our day at Jogyesa Temple. This is the largest active buddhist temple in central Seoul. It's the headquarters of the Jogye sect, a uniquely Korean buddhist sect. It was beautiful. It was really an amazing feeling to be sitting in a gorgeous temple in the middle of a huge metropolitan city, monks chanting, playing drums, and people taking a break from their day to stop in and pray. I really could have sat there all day.
Next, we walked through the streets of Insadong (I have mentioned this area in a previous post). We had the most amazing pancakes yet! Pancakes are very common street food, but these were a little different. They typically are little doughy balls just filled with cinnamon and smashed flat as they fry, but these had little pieces of nut in them, sooo yummy! Pancakes are my favorite street food!!

After our wonderful pancake snack we meandered into a neighborhood bordering Insadong. Koreans are some of themost generous and helpful people I have ever met, and If I could choose one moment to show this it would be what happened next.

I had recently read an article about a Mandu shop that was suppose to be a-mazing. The article said it was near-ish to Insadong, but a little out of the way and hard to find. Also on the same block was a highly recommended coffee shop and roastery. Because directions that seem simple in Korea are actually crazy complicated, we decided to ask the two women, who worked in the shop where Lucy had just bought a dress, for directions.

As I have found out in many occasions Koreans don't just send you off wondering in some general direction, they will make sure you get to your destination! I showed the lady the article and asked her if we could walk (using my best attempt at Konglish.) She wasn't sure, so she called the restaurant, where I overheard a few Korean words, including foreigners, haha. She then informed me that it was too far to walk and we would need to taxi.

Heres the surprising part, she didn't just send us out to catch our own taxi! She grabbed us by the hand and ran, yes ran, us to the corner where she flagged down taxis for us. But for some reason no taxi would take us, but she was determined to get us a taxi. Then it began it snow, no I am not exaggerating, and she didn't bring her coat. Lucy and I were caught between feeling bad and wanting to burst out laughing. We didn't know how to tell her it was ok, she didn't have to do this.

Finally we were able to express that it was ok, and we appreciated her help. She grabbed us and ran us back to the shop, again, running and dragging us and dodging people on the crowded sidewalk. Back in the shop she wrote down directions in Korean to help us when we did get a taxi.

Lucy and I walked down the street and finally caught a taxi, and good thing we didn't try to walk! It was a 15 min taxi drive up a hill. It was more than worth the trouble/experience getting there.

The mandu restaurant was opened by two sisters in thier fathers house and even though it has gained a lot of popularity they still operate out of the original house. It was located on the top of a hill that looked away from the city and out to the hills. We really felt removed from the normal craziness of city life. And the mandu was great! We got mandu that is a North Korean staple, dumplings filled with cucumber and shittake mushrooms, and a colorful mandu soup, followed by delicous cinnamon dessert tea.



And after our wonderful lunch we walked down the street to Club Espresso where we saw how
they roast their coffee and got free coffee samples. Then we spent the rest of the afternoon reading and chatting and drink yummy coffee, very typical.

Wednesday #3:

A Korean lady that is friends with Lucy invited us on a tour of KBS, Korea's largest broadcasting company. Think touring CBS or NBC back in the states. The tour was inKorean, but Sue, Lucy's friend, was able to translating most of what was happening. I was expecting a large tour group, but it was just Luc, me and Sue's family. It was super cool.

We we able to see a few different sets where game shows, talk shows and the news are shot. We toured the costume and prop room, the two young girls with us were so excited because they recognized many things from their favorite Korean dramas. We got to sit in on a rehearsal of a popular comedy show, Gag Concert. After that our tour guide led us down a hallway and told us if we were lucky we would run into some celebrities. Honestly she could have told me that anyone in that hallway was a celebrity, I'm not too sharp on my Korean pop culture. But apparently we did meet a few very famous comedians. I definitely gained some serious cool points with my students when I showed them the pictures! YAY ramen head teacher!

And today was another wonderful Wednesday!

Today we went to Noryangjin Fish Market. It is a giant fish market selling primarily live fish, sea creatures, and some very unusual little creatures.

Luckily we had two Korean friends to help us find our lunch. We went there with one goal: EAT LIVE OCTOPUS! And we had one rule, it had to be wiggling fresh!

We wandered around a bit, talked to a few fish sellers, let Jin bargain. Before we knew it we had one wiggling bag of octopus and a woman was flopping the rest of our lunch on to the scale and whacking it in the head. It all was a little overwhelming for a moment.

Each fish seller gives you instructions about which restaurant to take your fish to to be prepared. We went up the the second floor of the market, found our restaurant and mentally prepared for what lay ahead of us, well Lucy and I did at least.

Within a few minutes two plates were brought out, one with a full live octopus that was literally crawling off the plate and another plate of tentacle pieces with a lot of wiggle left in them. Our Korean friend wasted no time at all, and shoved the whole octopus into his mouth! It wiggled and stuck out and grabbed onto the side of his face. We weren't quiet as brave, but hey baby steps right? I picked out my piece of squirming tentacle, dipped it into so sauce, and ate it. It was so strange, it wiggled, and suctioned to my teeth. The strangest part was when I went to swallow and it was stuck to my teeth! They definetly weren't joking when they said to "chew vigorously" haha! Besides our lovely little octo friend, we also ate some sashimi fish, a shellfish that looked like an overgrown mussel and some spicy fish stew. It was all a very fun experience.

Ohhhh man I have so much more to write about, but I will leave this blog post to my wednesday adventures. Stay tuned for more Korean Life updates!

xoxoxo!





Monday, February 14, 2011

just dance.

Saturday night I went dancing with some friends. We met some very fun Koreans on the dance floor, I love the way Koreans dance, whatever goes. While dancing one of the boys pulled me aside and said one of the greatest things I have heard in a long while, and this is what he said:

"I love dancing. I speak little English, you speak no Korean, but we all dance in the same language. That is why I love dancing."

Beautiful words my Korean dance friend. I couldn't agree with you more.

Wednesday, February 9, 2011

what's my age again?



24...25...26......, I'm not really sure anymore.

In the states I'm 24. Born in '86, 24 makes perfect sense, but in Korea its a whole different story, and a little more complicated. The moment I stepped onto Korean soil I gained another year, so much for 24. In Korea, your age begins before you are born. So when you are born, you are already one year old. Wait! Thats not all! With each coming new year you add on another year. This past week was Seonal, the Korean Lunar New Year. So yes, if you are doing the math I am now 26.

So how did I celebrate my 26th birthday, with an epic 5 day vacation of course! Lunar New Year is one of two vacations that I get from work, so I couldn't pass up an invitation to get out of Seoul for bit.

Immediately after work on Wednesday I headed straight for the bus station. Oh sweet freedom! Luckily my first bus trip out of seoul was a success, and about 3 hours later I arrived in the coastal city of Sokcho. I met up with a friend, who is also teacher in Korea, and a group of his friends and friends of friends. In total there were 12 of us english teachers ready to fully live up our vacation.

The first night in Sokcho I arrived a few hours after everyone. When I got to the "pension" everyone was bbq-ing dinner outside. We drank and cooked dinner in the cold, and it was great. We soon moved inside but continued our New Year's celebrating. A few hours later we rang in the New Year. And being a little caught up in the excitement of the holiday, and/or being under the influence of a little too much wine, we all decided to run the block or so to the beach and jump in the sea. Let me just remind you that its FEBRUARY and on a good day its about 4o outside, during the day. And, its well after midnight when we decided to take a dip and there is still snow on the rocks near the water. I know in my last post I said that I have never been so cold in my life, well I think this definitely tops that! But at a least now I have an interesting story and can say the I rang in the Korean New Year by skinny dipping in the Sea of Japan.

Thursday in Sokcho we went to Seoraksan National Park. It was beautiful. It was so refreshing to be out of the hustle and bustle of the city and to be surrounded by so much natural beauty. We bought some ice cream and played in the dry/frozen river bed. After our little frozen break we took the gondola up to the top of the mountain. The view up was amazing, and like any other form of transportation in korea very close and cozy. Once at the top we hiked up some a little more to the top. It was so gorgeous, so many peaks, and you could see forever.


After exploring around the top of the mountain we gondola-ed back down and wandered around some temples and saw a giant Buddha. I don't think I will ever get tired of ancient Korean architecture and design. Its so intricate and colorful and gorgeous.

Friday was a day of tickets and bus rides and more tickets and bus rides and yet more tickets and bus rides, but in the end it was totally worth it. Apparently Koreans love selling tickets as much as they love LED. Bus ride numero uno took as from Sokcho to random town, then onto our next bus to Samchuk. A quick dash to find lunch before our next bus, which was an adventure itself, apparently the korean pronunciation of ham is hem, who knew? Then yet another bus to the 2nd largest limestone cave in Asia.

The cave was so cool. I must admit before this trip my only other cave experiences all revolved around the same cave, a cave that creeped the hell out of me. Boulder cave was very creepy to 9 and 12 year old me, the dark, the bats the trying not to fall in the water. Side note: I have always and will probably always be scared of the dark. Thankfully this cave was completely different, but I did miss the adventure-y feel of Boulder cave. This cave was open, lit, and equiped with metal walkways and stairs. Oh, and of course LED. Take for example this lovely rainbow that was placed in a cave the was already naturally, amazingly beautiful:

The cave was amazing and hilarious at the same time. Every part of the cave, every formation, every staircase/bridge had a random name such as "bridge of confessions," "stairway of eternal love," and so on. Koreans have a lovely way of cheesin up natural wonders. Oh, speaking of cheese, one thing I did find especially entertaining was the rock formation shaped like the virgin mary. It reminded me of Cheesus, you should all take a look at "Look! It's Jesus", a wonderful little book of Jesus sightings in things like burnt toast and Cheetos, freakin great!

For lack of words here a few cave pictures:
Friday night we went spent the night out exploring downtown Sokcho. We found the only "happenin" type bar, played apples to apples and danced and danced. We decided that our next stop would be a Norebong. Norebongs maybe one of my favorite late night, early morning activities. It works like this: you and your friends rent a room with couches, you choose you song you choose your light settings and you sing your heart out. Yep, just a little karaoke room for you and your friends, its awesome. Well on this particular night we didn't find a Norebong, but we found a Nore-bar. We were the only foreigners in the bar so we were invited to jump in on many songs, and sang a few of our own. Each song was a wonderful disaster, as always.

Saturday, surprisingly, we got up early and set our on another day trip. We went south about 30 mins to a very, very small coastal town. We went to an old abandoned light house. Mostly we just looked at the ocean. There is something so refreshing and energizing about being near the ocean. The love I have for the ocean is hard to put in to words, I feel like it is so rooted in my soul and my history, I feel so connected to it. I feel so at peace whenever I am near the sea. After the lighthouse, we waited around for a bus to our next small town adventure. In the next town we saw the most beautiful temples built on the sea cliffs. The scenery and the temples were so gorgeous. There was one temple that had a glass square in the middle of the floor where you could look down and see the waves breaking on the cliffs below.

Our last night in Sokcho was mellow and wonderful. About half our group had already went home. The rest of us went out to get shabu shabu for dinner, so far my favorite korean dish. Luckily for us our friend Chris had met a Korean guy on one of our many buses and he took us out to dinner. So nice to have someone to translate and explain what was happening haha. He was very nice. After dinner we bought wine and drank it on on the beach. Overall it was a wonderful vacation. I met interesting, fun people, saw an old friend, took a much needed break from city life, and finally got to explore more of Korea. Hopefully I will have another adventure to update you on soon.

Much Love!!